The Young and Effortless
Kimi Dangor and Shikha Kumar
In fashion’s infinitely fickle universe, where trends are transient and the success of seasonal shows hinges on showstoppers, column inches and social media clicks, some designers are slowly emerging as its consistent new guard. Whether a few seasons old or fresh off the GenNext boat, these designers have developed a signature style. Products of Lakme Fashion Week’s (LFW) incubation process, they proved why they were more than just the flavour of the season with strikingly individualistic collections on Day Three of the Summer/Resort 2015 edition.
Original art prints,wearable separates and breezy summer silhouettes — there wasn’t much not to love about Quirkbox’s collection “Wanderlust”. Inspired by postcards from across the world, Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev moved away from the saturated colour blocks of last season. While they stuck to their strengths with monuments and airplanes plastered over commercially-astute pieces such as suits, crop tops, flared skirts and dresses, the overall effect was less crowded than preceding collections.
Ragini Ahuja’s Ikai girl makes strong feminist statements and wears anti-fit silhouettes with sheep nappa leather appliques. Add to this a Japanese influence and you have a winner. This season, Ahuja’s line “Tribe” took a more feminine approach, with soft embroideries and delicate detailing. Polka dots and Japanese motifs made the Ikai girl more approachable.
Ever since his first collection in 2013, which questioned fashion conventions, Dhruv Kapur of DRVV has been creating gender-bending ensembles with impeccable finish. Kapur’s construction was the star of his collection “Undress Code”. From the opening vignette where two models wore refashioned jumpsuits and shirts with slashed sleeves, to deconstructed, literally falling-off-the-form gowns and jackets with his trademark zipper detailing and a beautiful basket weave, Kapur displayed more construction technique in the 16 garments he presented than a lot of designers show in full-length collections.
Last season’s standout GenNext designer, Dhruv Kapoor stuck to his steady sportswear influence in formalwear look. To an interesting interplay of fabrics and finishes, Kapoor added elements such as mesh detailing, leather pockets, fringing, and foiling and kept the collection interesting. We especially loved the biker jackets inferences, the latex trench coat and the snake-print pieces.
With its ultra clean, minimal lines and oversized silhouettes, Amrita Khanna and Gursi Singh’s collection screamed normcore. The Lovebirds duo, who played with horizontal stripes as the dominant theme of their second LFW show and kept the colours muted, are being recognised for their easy-to-wear style. With pleated culottes, pencil skirts, sack dresses and boxy tops, their unique unisex application was hard to miss.